Wednesday, January 21, 2009


some emptys with no one around ............mabe there was a reason for that?

This left above we found was generally an all round hectic place, on the way to the wave there was people bathing nude in some dusty river run off next to that there was a dead dog with its brains out, on the paddle out we saw that there was a narly current but there was alot of good emptys. One wave I rember spat in all our faces we through down alot of "BODYBOARDING" screems, then out of the blue me and rob suddenly got caught on the inside on a bomb, it pushed us all the way back to the beach, the wave was super heavy, I Check robs arm, rob got 13 stitchers and a really bad case of bali belly 3 hospital visits which was meant to be 4 he didnt want to go for the 4th visit so he got tim to take the stitches out, tim missed 1 stitch which was pulled out 6 weeks later, ohh and he was also stuck on anitpiotics for 17 days......... but luckly rob didnt get negz and still had an epic trip!

We found the left.
After watching endless summer 1 and 2 today, looking back on shots like this in indo with just you and your mates you sorta wish you werent stuck in syndey with about 40 people in the line all fighting over a 2 ft crumbling ripbowl.

No comments: